How to Trek Kilimanjaro (www.landmarksafaris.com)1. A great experience
2. Equipment and clothing
3. Before the safari
4. Stomach problems
5. Food
6. Hydration
7. Health
8. Walking up
9. Breathing
10. Sunburn and eyes
11. Walking down
12. Well being
13. Around Kilimanjaro
14. What next?
15. Recommended reading
16. Map of Kilimanjaro
1. A great experienceKilimanjaro is the mountain of dreams. It is a lodestone set apart on the African plains. To see the glint of snow and ice through the clouds for the first time is unforgettable. Over the years there have been scores of documentary films, books and chapters in books portraying Kilimanjaro’s unique environment.
For those wishing to experience first hand the forests, moorland, alpine zone and to stand on the summit of Africa’s highest mountain, there are trekking and climbing guidebooks available in many retail shops and bookshops. They have detailed route descriptions, fauna and flora, and a host of general mountain information. What these guidebooks do not address is how to counter and overcome altitude-related problems. In this handbook, I tackle living and operating effectively at altitude. There is also a guideline and general advice section for people not too familiar with mountain equipment. This information is hard won from personal experiences on many high-altitude mountains around the world and over 60 ascents of Kilimanjaro.
Mountain misconceptionsMany people think that equatorial mountains are warmer than similar peaks in the northern hemisphere. Wrong! Mountains in central and east Africa can be very wet and extremely cold in the alpine zone. They go from high summer in the day to mid winter at night.
Because of its size and isolation, Kilimanjaro creates its own weather. There are wetter conditions on the southern and western slopes than on the northern slopes. The general weather pattern begins with clear blue-sky mornings. The afternoon is often cloudy, with possible rain on the lower levels and sleet, hail and snow on the moorland and alpine areas. At dusk, the clouds clear and the nighttime sky can be very spectacular. People who have lived most of their time in cities cannot believe that there is a huge bright universe out there!
(insert picture of Kilimanjaro—with well-labelled trails, levels and peaks)
What is often not known by trekkers is that there are a number of technical rock and ice climbing routes on the western breach wall above the Machame, Shira and Umbwe trails and ice climbs on the southern glaciers. Mawenzi has its share of rock and ice climbs when the seasonal conditions are favourable. The peak is not popular with climbers since the rock is very unstable. Currently there is a National Park ban on technical climbing. Mawenzi may not be a trekking peak but camping below a huge crescent of rock cliffs has become popular for people approaching from the northern slopes.
A walk in the parkSome people dismiss trekking on Kilimanjaro as ‘just an easy walk in the park’. Interestingly, some of these people have never actually trekked on Kilimanjaro! Some super-fit athletes that visit the mountain have little or no serious problems. I have spoken to excellent marathon runners on their return from Kilimanjaro and they all say that they had to focus in the effort to reach the summit. For most of us, it is not just an easy walk in the park! I think that those who have been to the summit and say that it is easy fall into two categories. They are either suffering from amnesia or they are not telling the truth!
Climbing concerns“Am I going to fit enough?” “What about mountain sickness?” These are some of the questions trekkers ask. I am going to discuss these natural anxieties and give you a step-by-step guide to help you control the situation.
Something extra
Often, other factors can hinder climbing efforts. Some people bring their private problems or major life decisions with them, rather like extra baggage that weighs them down. If you recognize this in yourself, the mountain experience can be turned to an advantage. I know many people for whom the mountain has been a wonderful place to rationalize a problem. Answers have been found and changes been made. I am not playing at being a psychologist but it is surprising what a number of people have informed me later about their experience on Kilimanjaro and I am just passing this on to you. One thing is for sure—we can all rise above the norm (no pun intended!) and discover more about ourselves. After all, we all go to mountains for different reasons!
2. Equipment and clothingA reputable mountain equipment retailer will advise you on what you will need for Kilimanjaro. Writing out a checklist is a good idea for people who have a mix of summer and winter mountain equipment. Should you forget something, it may be possible to hire the item at the Kilimanjaro Park headquarter gate. I would not like to place any bets on the item being there though—it is a matter of luck!
OuterwearIf you have never bought any mountain gear before, the terminology may be a little confusing. Here is what you need to know.
Wickability Clothing’s ability to get rid of moisture
R E T Evaporative Resistance of a Textile. Determines how easy it is for moisture to move away from the body to the outside. Usually there is a number in front of R E T to tell you how well the textile breathes.
Waterproof Fabric that sheds or repels water
Water-repellent
Water-resistant
P S I Pressure pounds per Square Inch (British and American Standards). Determines fabric’s ability to withstand the pressure of rain hitting the garment. The higher the number in front of the P S I the greater the fabric can withstand water.
Windchill prevention Garments that they are windproof and often made of breathable
Windblock fleece fabric. Gore-Tex, Sympatex, eVent and Polartec are popular
Wind-stopping brand names.
Keeping clean
All outer clothing must be washed after extensive use in order to maintain its performance. Gore-Tex, Sympatex and eVent trade names have breathable coatings or membranes. The pores on these garments get clogged with dirt and grease. Use a gentle non-biological detergent like Nikwax Tech Wash to wash these garments.
However, keep in mind that repeated washing can remove any water-shedding treatment from the manufacturer. You can usually determine this if the garment stays wet on the outside, instead of raindrops rolling off. Sometimes slow tumble-drying can reconstitute the water-shedding properties. If it fails, Nikwax TX-Direct spray can restore the waterproofing.
With the various outer clothing on the market you must read the particular washing and drying instructions carefully. The manufacturers maintain not to use fabric conditioner as it could decrease the water repellent lifespan.
HypothermiaEven though we have good mountain gear, it is still possible to get hypothermia (rapid lowering of the body temperature). Hypothermia can be very serious, particularly if the weather suddenly changes to a cold wind or rain from sweaty conditions.
(insert symptoms of hypothermia)At times, the weather can change to near freezing conditions within a few minutes. Lower on the trek, you may wear light shirt if it is hot. However, you must always carry in your daypack a fleece jacket and a hooded waterproof and windproof outer shell. Do not wait too long before you pull them on. Having cold fingers and toes is all right—it is not hypothermia!
Nightie nightsHigher up on the mountain and on summit night (yes, you will be making your summit bid to Uhuru peak at night), the popular concept is layering the upper body before you go to sleep. Three layers of polypropylene and fibre pile is a good combination. I am not saying that it works for everyone, some people may require four layers. You don’t want to become too hot and start sweating. Taking off a layer or two may cool you down too much because of the evaporating sweat.
FootwearLately, footwear has almost become a science. The only inventions that are yet to be developed are wings on boot ankles! The choice is mind-boggling and I will not venture into this arena.
First things firstWhatever choice you make, be sure that the boots feel right from the very moment you buy them. First impressions are usually the best. The boots must leave spare room in front of your toes and have a good support for your foot. That seems obvious but some people are more colour and style conscious than practical!
People with strong ankles like to trek in sneakers or training shoes—a fine idea since it is often hot during the day on the lower levels. This saves your mountain boots for the summit ascent. It is very important to keep the summit boots dry. Some people put their boots in a plastic bag on the summit night and sleep with them in their sleeping bag. They maybe a little lumpy in the bag but at least you start with warm feet! Could be that you don’t have large enough plastic bags. Most boots have inner soles—take those out and sleep with them instead.
Cold feetI suffer from cold feet on Kilimanjaro, particularly on the night ascent. I have yet to find boots or socks that truly help me. Now that is a challenge to any manufacturer! What I am saying is that if you have the same problem, don’t worry. With a well-known boot brand and modern socks, you may be uncomfortable but you won’t get frostbite. You will suffer like me until your feet warm up. Wiggle your toes often on the way up—that will certainly help.
How many socks?You will need light socks for the lower level. For the alpine area and summit night, you need thick dry socks. Some trekkers have a sock fetish—half their luggage is socks. Others pack only two or three pairs. Why not strike a happy medium and take eight pairs for a six-day trek? That would be one clean pair every day and two spare pairs. If your summit boots are large enough, you may require two pairs on the ascent. Also, if you have misplaced your gloves, you can use an extra pair as mitts. What happens if you are down to your last dry pair and all the others are wet? Sleep on your driest pair. Sandwich the socks between your sleeping bag and mattress. Your body heat will do the rest.
Clothing checklistBring all clothing with you, since most items are not available in East Africa.
Hiking boots 1 pair of medium weight insulated mountain boots with a thick sole. Boots made from a combination of leather and breathable fabric work well at high altitudes. Double boots are not necessary and are often uncomfortable.
Trainers or sneakers 1 pair for the walk in and around camp.
Thin socks 3 pairs for the lower level trek.
Thick socks 3-5 pairs mountain boots socks. Double insulated thick smart woollen socks are best for the upper levels.
Gaiters 1 knee-length pair to keep pieces of scree and snow out of the boots on higher levels
Shorts 1 pair for hiking on lower levels
Long underwear 2 pairs of light polypropylene top and bottom for wearing next to the skin (1 pair for sleeping and 1 pair for high altitude)
1 pair of medium weight polypropylene top and bottom.
Fibre pile pants 1 pair to wear over other layers
Light shirts 2 shirts or T-shirts. Shirts with a collar turned up protect the neck from the sun.
Thick shirt 1 shirt of Polartec Fabric (trade mark) or similar material.
Fibre pile jacket To wear over other layers.
Rain and wind parka This must be large enough to easily fit over all other layers.
Wind pants There could be high winds at altitude. A full-length zip will save time in cold conditions.
Thin balaclava For extra head and face protection.
Fibre pile hat Must have a cheek and ear protection and neck protection if possible.
Light hat There are so many styles for sun protection.
Gloves or mittens Fibre pile or other insulated material. It is often not necessary to have an outer shell unless you normally suffer from cold hands.
Scarf or neck warmer Insulating the back of the neck particularly during the night ascent of Kibo is very important.
Sleeping bag Must be for sub-zero temperatures.
Daypack A well-designed bag large enough to carry some spare clothing, water container and camera. No more than 50cm high (20 inches) Take care that the straps are adjusted not to restrict your chest in breathing and not to squeeze your stomach.
Soft duffle bag Medium size to be carried by porters. No more than 80-85cm long (30-34 inches)
Head lamp With spare batteries and bulbs. A lithium headlamp lasts longer Hand held flash lamp
Camera careBecause I am very keen photographer, camera care is something close to my heart. Most people would take some form of camera with them to record their safari. It could be a single lens reflex, a point and shoot, digital or if you don’t mind the weight, a much larger video camera.
Battery failureThe one thing that all cameras have in common is that they use batteries and, the common enemy of batteries is the cold. More than likely, your camera will not work on the summit. Point and shoot cameras are particularly prone to battery failure. Prevent battery failure using these three measures. (This also applies to headlamps and hand held flash light batteries.)
1. Take the batteries out of the camera and keep them in a pocket close to your body. Placing batteries close to your body during cold wind conditions and at altitude can prove nearly impossible though.
2. A better idea is to keep the camera inside your clothing close to your body.
3. You may have to place a larger camera in your daypack. Wrap it in insulating material and place it against your back. However, it could still fail. Always have spare batteries in your pocket.
Dos and Don’ts• Do keep your camera with you at all times when you are not using it, either around your neck or in your pack.
• Do use a photographic fine hairbrush or a lens tissue to clean the front lens. Breathe on the surface before wiping.
• Do use your lens tissue lightly—you are not polishing the family silver!
• Do keep the rear lens very clean.
• Don’t place your camera on the ground. The wet or damp grass, dust and direct hot sun on the camera body will not improve your photography. It could ruin your film and result in expensive camera repairs.
• Don’t worry too much about cleaning off dust on the front lens.
• Don’t clean lens until you are off the mountain—unless there is a greasy fingerprint on the lens.
3. Before the safariFitnessWithout a doubt, the more muscles you use in daily life, the fitter you become. Trekking on a mountain over 19,000 feet (5000 metres) requires a very high level of heart-pumping exercise and the correct use of your lungs. I will talk about that latter as it is exceptionally important in your success and wellbeing. The correct use of your lungs could make the world of a difference between a challenging time and a horrible time on the mountain.
Get active
We are born with a fantastic body—it is like a self-renewing, self-repairing machine. The more we exercise this fantastic machine, the more it becomes efficient and healthy. Naturally, the more of an active history in mountaineering and sport you have, the greater the chances of your faring well on Kilimanjaro.
I met a young woman on the summit one season. She was having a difficult time walking but not because of the altitude. One of her boot soles had partly come off and that is what drew my attention to her. She claimed that the only thing she had ever ‘climbed’ was the staircase in her house! That may be so but the way she carried herself, even with a flapping boot, was impressive. She was very fit. Could it be because she played tennis six times a week?
You don’t have to be a mountaineer to go trekking on Kilimanjaro. It helps if you are an active person. Many people I meet with soft tissue injuries on the mountain are not used to training their bodies to take strain, hence fall victim to strains and sprains. If you are not an active person, please do at least five to six months training before you attempt Kilimanjaro. Get out there where you live and walk as much as you can. If you can play tennis, squash or go for aerobics three to four times a week, you can’t go wrong. But remember to warm up first before any strenuous or vigorous exercise. A stretching exercise routine every day will certainly help. Walk up stairs where possible instead of taking the lift.
Your healthVaccinesImmunizations should begin about six weeks before departure. Don’t leave them too late since some side effects could be adverse on the mountain.
Vaccines fall into two categories—required and recommended. Currently in East Africa, only Yellow Fever is required. Tetanus, Meningitis and Hepatitis A vaccinations are recommended. The choice is between you and your doctor.
MalariaYou will not contract malaria on Kilimanjaro. It is where you go before and after the mountain trek that determines whether you will get malaria or not. Many people that I have taken on Kilimanjaro have been on anti-malarial medication. Most have had very strange dreams! May be it is a combination of the altitude and the medication. So don’t be surprised if it happens to you! Periodically, new anti-malarial drugs come onto the market but none so far are absolutely effective. You must seek up-to-date advice from your doctor.
Little tips1. Get a dental check up before you leave home. A small thing like bad filling can bring on the agony. You may be unaware of the problem until you ascend to high altitude and an air cavity expands in the tooth because of the change in pressure.
2. This may sound silly. Before you start hiking, make sure that your toenails are cut short. Holes in your expensive hiking socks are very annoying! If your toenails are long enough to touch the inside of your boot toe cap, they could turn black with trapped blood and you could loose them altogether. This is a very painful condition!
4. Stomach problemsMany people suffer from stomach problems when they travel. It could vary from uncomfortable gas in the lower intestines to a case of violent diarrhoea. This often begins on the first day at destination.
Why is travel = stomach problems? • You travel on an aircraft with a few hundred other people, then proceed to share the same toilet with them (hopefully, you wash your hands!).
• You share the same dry air with fellow travellers. Infections are likely to be passed from passenger to passenger through the air.
• You travel at altitude in a pressurized cabin. The sudden jump in altitude can affect digestion.
• On arrival, you stay at an altitude higher than most travellers are used to living. This further compounds the problem!
Help yourself• Bring your own hand wipes and use them before you eat.
• Do not overeat aircraft food.
• On the flight, drink wholesome fluids like bottled water and fruit juices.
• Do not drink too much alcohol or stimulants like strong coffee and tea.]
Mountain embarrassmentsFlatulence (gas build up in the lower intestine) awaits you on the mountain! Don’t worry about gas because you have to live with it for a while until you descend to a lower altitude or until you are back home. You will need to understand your travelling companions. Take comfort in the fact that there are good chances that they are also suffering from the same problem!
You may experience varying degrees of diarrhoea on the mountain. Diarrhoea is common with travellers and is transmitted in several ways.
• Contaminated food
• Contaminated water
• Contaminated utensils
• Contaminated hands
Help yourself• Maintain a high fluid intake if the infection becomes serious.
• Mix an oral hydration preparation in your water bottle and drink it frequently.
• Wash your hands frequently and always after going to the toilet, before every meal and at the end of the day’s trek. If there is no water, use hand wipes or liquid hand cleansers.
• Wipe your eating utensils before using them.
• Do not share water bottles even with a close relation. You may pass on or receive something more than friendship!
• Since most people contract a mountain operator to guide them on Kilimanjaro, make sure that the operator has plenty of hand washing water available. If water is unavailable, talk to the chief guide. It may be an indication of how the mountain operator handles your food. If in doubt about your cook’s hygiene, be sure to give him a bar of soap.
Manners please!It is vital to you and your trekking companions health that you wash your hands before handling all food and containers that have food in them. This may seem obvious, but I have seen people cough and sneeze into their hands and wipe a dripping nose with a finger and then hand out food. How to win friends and influence people!
Living at high altitude can cause indigestion. Most people are on the mountain for only five to seven days, so you would think that indigestion should not be a problem. The short stay often does not allow your stomach to adjust. Acid build up and an unsettled stomach can be annoying. The higher up you go, the more common indigestion becomes.
Help yourself• Chew your food well
• Leave considerable time between eating and going to bed.
• Do not eat fatty food or nuts just before bedtime.
• Chew on stomach settling tablets when indigestion attacks.
5. FoodThere are many theories regarding carbohydrate loading. Most of these theories have proven totally useless. Super trained marathon runners usually use carbo-loading techniques before an event. But for the rest of us, a normal balanced diet will do just as well.
The mountain operator you have contracted will cater for you. You will be served plenty of pasta and potatoes with the main meals. The quality of food provided by the various hotels and trekking organizations has improved over the years since I have been trekking Kilimanjaro. However, if you require your favourite food on the mountain, bring it with you. If the food needs cooking, you may have to give careful instructions.
Keep away from fatty foods and nuts since you will not digest very well at altitude. Dried fruit adds to the gas build up in the stomach.
You may want to bring your favourite ‘trail mix’ with nuts, dried fruit and other tasty things. Great, the mix works well lower down, but be careful above 4000 metres.
6. HydrationSome people are built like camels and their bodies use water very efficiently. However, most of us are not camels. Kilimanjaro’s climate, which varies from Equatorial to Arctic conditions, demands a high intake of fluids.
The trek starts in a tropical rainforest where it can be hot and humid. You will certainly lose considerable fluid through perspiration, unless you trek in the rainy season (definitely not recommended).
Higher on the moorland, the air becomes dry. The higher you go, the more moisture is sucked from you like a drying sponge. The combination of dry air, physical exercise and sunshine, even on a cloudy day will dehydrate you!
If you have diarrhoea, it is very important to maintain a high fluid intake. Drink water with hydration salts.
Even if you are perfectly healthy, maintain high fluid intake to help you acclimatize to the high altitude. Hot drinks are great for the evening and morning. For you coffee addicts—sorry! Coffee is not recommended higher up on the mountain.
It is not advisable to drink alcohol on your way up, save that for the celebration on your way down! Tea is fine but should become weaker with altitude, because of its diuretic effect. Since am a tea lover, I barely tolerate the inconvenience. Herbal tea is a better choice. Soups are good, but they shouldn’t be too salty. In fact, it is not a good idea to eat salty foods—they will dehydrate you. Chocolate drinks work very well.
The very best drink is good old water! The water in streams on the mountain is generally free from nasty diseases that are carried by animals. However, care must be taken in the treatment. There may still be strange bacteria this water. Do not take for granted that the water given to you has been well boiled. Use your own water purifying tablets in your bottle. Be sure to allow the water to stand for the correct period of time and remember to wash the bottle mouth with purified water.
There are many water filters on the market. If you want to use a filter, try to purchase a well-known make with a ceramic insert. Some systems contain chemical agents, which saves you from having to treat the water afterwards.
How much do you have to drink? This depends on your body mass. If there is such person as an average person, not less than three litres of water a day. Larger people require more fluid. As a rule to work by, drink as much as you can stand to drink. You will know how hydrated you are if your urine is clear and copious. If it is a dark yellow, then you are dehydrated. Drink more non-alcoholic mountain water. It is the best champagne you can get in Africa!
7. Health Remember that drugs cannot cure everything and must be used with caution. Avoid carrying drugs unless you are totally familiar with their use. You must know the directions for use, limitations and dangers. At altitude, people make mistakes. Most directions are in a print size that requires a magnifying glass and even then you need good light! So, pack a magnifying glass in your first aid kit. Although medical aid is not available on Kilimanjaro, you don’t need to take a full pharmacy with you and weigh your porter down.
DiamoxThe question trekkers ask me the most is, “Should I use Diamox?” (Acetazolamide). In my experience, Diamox has helped people to adapt to altitude. However, it’s not for people that are allergic to sulpha or people with liver and kidney disorders. It was not designed for mountaineers but for heart disease patients with related oedema. Diamox is a very strong diuretic.
Odd things that mimic heart disease happen at altitude. The excess movement of body fluids to places where they should not be, particularly the lungs and brain, causes the heart disease symptoms. Diamox helps to stabilize this condition. It also helps you to breathe deeper at night. The generally accepted dosage is one 125 mg pill in the morning and another in the evening, commencing on the first mountain day. The contra indications are not serious, and you will most likely experience tingling in the fingers and toes. If you want more information on Diamox, discuss it with your doctor.
The inconvenient down side is that since Diamox is a strong diuretic it will make you ‘pee’ like you have never ‘peed’ before. The very fact that it makes you urinate seems to help stop unwanted fluid build up in dangerous places and the constant flushing of the kidneys is beneficial. The more you drink the more you pee, and that’s the way it is! But you must not stop drinking! Remember though, that Diamox is not a wonder drug that will get you to the summit. In later sections, you will find other decisive points.
AspirinOf all the simple drugs, Aspirin works very well as an all round pain relief analgesic. However, combination of different products can be harmful. People with sensitive stomachs should not take aspirin as it could lead to further irritation. In any event, aspirin should be taken after meals.
Pre-existing conditions
If you suffer from pre-existing disorders such as asthma or diabetes, take enough medicine with you for the total duration of your stay. Don’t take the chance of picking up extra supplies in Africa. Consult your doctor regarding your drug selection.
First aid kitYour First aid kit does not have to be complicated. It should be small, sturdy and waterproof. For your personal medical supply, you can purchase ready made first aid kits. Make sure you are familiar with the contents and how to use the various items before you leave home. You can change the contents according to your needs and add particular medications and dressings.
FeetNow, for one of the most important parts of your body, your ‘dear old feet’. Your feet take a particular hammering on mountains, so you must take extra care of them. Use antiseptic foot powders that prevent fungal infections and regularly change your socks.
Avoid plastic foot ware since plastic makes feet sweat. In very wet conditions, rubber gumboots/Wellington boots may be the only practical foot ware on the lower levels of the mountain. In such cases, spare socks come in very handy.
Some years ago, I was once on a four-week safari on the Ruwenzori Mountains. The area along the Uganda and Congo border is renowned for very high rainfall. A great period of time was spent plodding around in gumboots right up to the snowline. Unfortunately, I had only one spare pair of socks and no foot powder. Somehow, I never packed any more socks! It took me three months to clear up a very annoying fungal infection. The smell was not exactly endearing either!
A stitch in timeWhile you are trekking, keep readily available some moleskin, surgical tape and first aid plasters in your daypack. Don’t wait until the little hotspot on your foot is really hurting. Take off your boot and immediately apply a blister plaster. The same goes for any other injuries like cuts and abrasions—give immediate care to the problem. Every evening you should try and wash your feet, dry them well and apply anti septic power before putting on clean socks. Feet take a hammering on any long trek, look after them!
Breathing problemsThe following problem is not very common, but it is worth mentioning. An odd thing that sometimes happens at altitude is Cheyne-Stokes breathing (periodic breathing). It is not serious but the affected person stops breathing for a few seconds, then shallow breathing resumes and the pattern is repeated again. Sometime a person with Cheyne-Stokes breathing person awakens with a feeling of suffocation. This condition is not a big problem but can be quite alarming. People on Diamox don’t usually get this disorder.
When your nose runs, as it will in the cold dry air, blow it carefully so as not to cause nosebleeds. Nosebleeds are common at altitude and although annoying, they are a minor problem. Firmly putting direct pressure against the problem nostril is usually sufficient to stop the bleeding. A drop of petroleum jelly on an ear cleaning bud wiped on the inside of each nostril will help guard against the dryness.
If you have a raging cold or flu-like symptoms, I am very sorry for you but there is no way that you are going on Kilimanjaro. Some people can get way with trekking on the mountain after being infected with a cold the week before. Full-blown colds don’t get better the higher up you go—they get worse!
Serious mountain problems
You may have heard the terms Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) and High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE).
AMS is caused by lack of sufficient oxygen in the blood and consequently the brain. This results in symptoms like lack of appetite, thirst, weakness, dizziness, headache, blue lips, nausea and sometimes vomiting. Sounds like the morning after a night out on the town! In addition, there could be swelling of the hands and feet, insomnia and a decreased urine output. The headache and vomiting could increase with altitude gain.
Acute AMS can deteriorate to either HAPE or HACE. In addition to all the above AMS symptoms, there’s a build up of fluid in the lungs in the case of HAPE and a build up of fluid in the brain in the case of HACE. These conditions are very dangerous and can be fatal if nothing is done to reverse the fluid retention.
If the situation has deteriorated to HAPE or HACE, there is a solution. Go down, down, down, down and down again to a safe altitude where the condition stabilizes and begins to clear up.
Many years ago, I had had HACE on a high mountain in South America and it is an experience I do not want to repeat. It was my first attempt at climbing a 6000-metre peak and I was still new at finding out about how to look after myself. However, if you follow and practise the guidelines in this book, you will have little, or no problems at all and will not suffer what I went through.
8. Walking upPoles or sticks?
Many European trekkers use one or two walking poles and some hotels supply a walking stick. Walking sticks provide extra balance on steep and uneven ground.
You are free to choose between walking poles or walking sticks. Whatever your choice, a first-time user will need some practice to get rid of clumsiness. Do not become too reliant on a stick or poles—develop and rely on your own balance.
Distance covered?On each day’s trek, you may want to know the distance you have travelled. In mountaineering, it is the length in hours of walking each day that is important, not the distance covered. This is because of winding trails and difficult terrain. Trying to work out the exact miles or kilometres covered is not practical. Some days could involve many hours of walking but very little distance covered. The slow pace at altitude must also be factored in as well. At a lower level, you could cover altitude distances in lest than half the time. Therefore, distance has no meaning—it is walking time that matters.
Gradual ascentAll guidebooks say that gradual ascent is the best way to acclimatize to altitude gain and each day on Kilimanjaro has been worked out very carefully. The longer you can spend on the trek, the better you will perform. Slightly shorten your normal walking stride to achieve gradual ascent.
Conserve your energy!
It is important that you conserve energy and not overextend yourself. You may not think it necessary to do this on the first and second day, but you must get into the mind-set to walk slowly and steadily. There is no rush, no prize in arriving at your over-night stop first. It impresses no one. Most local porters can do this in half the time if they wanted to with a full load!
Remember to conserve your energy as you slowly ascend to altitude. Your stride should shorten on steep sections to where the heel of one foot is about level to the toe of the other foot. This is particularly important on the night ascent of Kibo. The idea is to conserve energy, how many times have I said that?
You will need all your muscle power not only to go up but also to come down. On your Kibo ascent, you may walk for over fifteen hours from the time you begin your ascent to your arrival at the night stop!
You may have heard the phrase ‘rest step’ or a similar phrase. It is away of conserving energy! It is very effective on steeper sections and is a very simple technique. Everything is simple in mountain walking but you must continuously practice.
One step at a timeStarting with say with the right leg placed in front of you, keep the heel of the foot as low as you can. Lift your body on that right leg and swing your left leg into the next step. Right! What you must do is to gently lock off the knee of the right leg that you are leaving behind so that it is straight. Your body is pivoting forward on a straight right leg. Swing the left leg into place, with the heel down flat on the ground. On steep ground, the heel should be at about the same level as the toe of the foot of the straight leg. There should also be a brief pause before you move your body on to the next step. Lift your body on the left leg and lock the knee straight as you move your body forward on to the next step…
Slippery slopesOn loose scree, you may have to kick steps, forcing your lead foot onto the loose material. It is important to keep your heels as low as possible. In that way, you do not strain the calf muscles. The thigh muscles should do all the work.
Night time walkingAs I mention earlier, your summit ascent will be at night due to a number of reasons. Firstly, if you are walking for fifteen hours or more, there are not enough daylight hours for you to get to the night stop before dark. Secondly, the cone scree is often frozen at night, improving your footing and lessening your chances of slipping. Thirdly, when you begin to hike to the crater edge of Kibo, you don’t want to see your destination above you for five to six hours!
Some trekking companies camp inside the crater at approximately 5,800 m (19,000 ft) and have a shorter ascent to the summit the next day. It sounds very attractive to do this and it saves a considerable amount of time and effort. However, there is a huge down side to this practice. All participants must be exceptionally well acclimatized, since there have been recorded cases of HAPE and HACE and at least one fatality.
What to not eatBefore you start, take plenty of fluids—preferably hot weak tea, drinking chocolate or just plain hot water. You should be well hydrated from the previous evening. Do not eat any solids, like porridge, biscuits, power bars or other snacks. Your body has enough to cope with, without having to digest food. Chances are it will not digest the food and you will suffer! It is also embarrassing when you have to hold up other people to vomit! The previous evening’s dinner is sufficient. You do not need to eat. Take biscuits and snacks with you and eat them on your way down!
Drinking waterHow much water should you take with you on the summit bid? This has always been a difficult question. Bear in mind that every litre of water equals one kilo of extra weight that you have to carry. Your daypack should be nearly empty to accommodate discarded clothing on the descent as the day warms up.
As a rough guide, I would say take two litres. This may not be enough for comfort, but it is likely that you will bring most of it down. Unless the water bottles are well insulated, there is a good chance that the water will freeze. The temperature at night will determine whether the water will freeze or not. At times you can strike a match on the summit and at other times the wind chill of minus thirty degrees!
You must warm that water up before swallowing it. Do not swallow ice. It will dehydrate you in the long run and ice hitting the stomach at altitude is not a good idea believe me.
Camel packs or platypus containers are a great idea lower down as you can just suck away through the tube without stopping. They will also freeze, in particular the tube and mouthpiece. The makers sell a neoprene cover for the container and a sleeve for the tube. In mild conditions, they seem to work well. Blowing back the surplus water in the tube after drinking helps to stop an ice plug.
Some organizations have their guides take vacuum flasks with hot drinks. However, what is important is to make sure that the organization has plenty of drinking water ready for you the when you return from Kibo’s upper slopes. Knowing this beforehand will ease your mind about hydrating.
Things to rememberIf your daypack has a waist\hip belt, adjust the strap so that it does not squeeze your stomach. Adjust chest straps so that they do not restrict your breathing.
Do not overdress. Keep your wind/rain gear in your daypack and use them only when you have to. Your body needs to ventilate without retaining moisture in your clothes. You don’t want to start sweating and be forced to take off a layer of clothing to cool down. Generally, it is best to wear just enough clothing to keep you cool or just comfortable. For most of the ascent, you will be walking in single file. Stopping to take a layer of clothing off and then placing it back on again because sweating has cooled you off too much, is annoying and may hold up the line.
On your ascent, the pace set by the guide in front often appears slow at the start (4,700 metres or 15,500 feet). If you can maintain that same slow pace for six hours to the crater rim (5,640 metres or 18,500 feet), you are doing very well. The people in front of you will also determine your pace and when they stop you may have to stop too. Bear in mind that the high altitude will lower you tolerance level and you could become irritable. The cold and occasional stopping will try your patience further.
Don’t bunch up. Keep a distance of three to four paces between you and the person in front of you. If the person in front falters, you don’t want to walk into his or her back. If the person stops, you have to stop. Let the person have the same distance between you when he/she starts to walk again. There is another reason to keep a distance from the person in front. No longer is it politely referred to as flatulence, by now it is plainly farting!
If you stop for a while, continue moving on the spot and swinging your arms—it will help keep you warm. Be careful not to hit the person behind you—he/she may be too close. When you stop for organized rest breaks, do not sit down. Keep your legs slightly apart to keep steady. Stand with your head up looking up at the stars and breathe with a clear air way. I will give more details in the next section!
Don’t take your pack off unless you have to, it keeps your back warm. When you start to walk again, take that small step, the heel just in front of the other toe. If you slip or stumble, stop and breathe deeply as you recover. Take that small step again and continue walking.
If you are walking with a headlamp on, be careful when you turn around. You may startle someone with your lamp! Keep your spare batteries in your pocket and not in your daypack. Don’t throw them away dead batteries. They will bounce back to life lower down where temperatures are warmer.
You have to constantly think these things through. It is very easy to forget them at altitude. It sounds so easy but at altitude the mind gets fuzzy!
9. BreathingThis is very important! Your well-being hinges around breathing correctly!
I have seen people being pulled, pushed and carried to the crater rim and even further to the summit! This is plainly stupid and dangerous! Some guides feel that they must do this to secure a good tip. If you cannot get to the crater rim on your own two feet—don’t go there! Go down! (put in text box)
It starts with your first steps on Kilimanjaro. Your breathing must be deep and slow, often in rhythm with your step. Many people have told me later that this synchronizing of breath and step was necessary for them to maintain concentration, particularly high on the mountain.
What’s the big deal? Oxygen is what it is all about. We must have oxygen to generate the fuel that powers the muscles. In simple terms, we must have oxygen so that our cells can generate a chemical called adenosine triphosphate (ATP). ATP is the energy source that is used when muscles contract. If we don’t provide enough oxygen to the bloodstream (which in turn transports the oxygen to the cells), we restrict the production of ATP. This limits the amount of fuel we have for contracting our muscles repeatedly and efficiently. Every physical activity becomes difficult and efficient mental function is impaired as well. We become short of breath and pant or breathe rapidly, in an attempt to make up for the oxygen deficit. The panting is too shallow and insufficient to maintain the body at high altitude.
Lack of oxygen also makes cells change their basic metabolic pathway from ‘aerobic’ (with oxygen) to ‘anaerobic’ (without oxygen). When this happens, muscles build up lactic acid, which leads to cramping. When all this starts to happens at altitude, the body and mind begin to shut down. An affected person experiences loss of coordination in walking and handling simple things. Other symptoms are drowsiness and difficulty in communicating with others.
The right way to breatheFocus on your navel. Push your stomach slightly out and breathe in through your mouth, lifting your diaphragm up and filling your lungs from the bottom. Exhale as soon as you can through your mouth, making an ‘O’ with your lips. Force the air out. Repeat the technique again. You cannot afford to slacken off.
If you wake up in the morning above 13,000 ft (4,000 m) and feel off colour with a slight headache, continue to lie on your back. Go through the same breathing exercise as if you are walking. Force the air out. Of course breathing lower down the mountain is done gently. If you are too vigorous, you could become a little giddy with too much air. However, you should practise the technique slowly.
The higher you go, the more you should increase the tempo. While walking at 4,500 – 4,800 metres (15,000 – 16,000 feet) your breathing must be in time with your step. From 5,400 – 5,640 metres (16,500 –18,500 feet) your breathing should be one and half to two breaths per step.
“But that is hyperventilation and surely that’s bad!” I have often heard people who have not gone through the high altitude experience say. Yes, it would be if you were walking at sea level. But high up on Kibo, you will have less than 50% oxygen available. At rest, your lungs have to work twice as hard to be efficient. When you are walking uphill, your lungs will have to work three to four times harder to maintain your body and brain.
All the time, remember to:
Focus on your navel. Push your stomach slightly out and breathe in through your mouth, lifting your diaphragm up and filling your lungs from the bottom. Exhale as soon as you can through your mouth, making an ‘O’ with your lips. Force the air out. Repeat the technique again. You cannot afford to slacken off. Don’t give a damn what you sound like. You will get there!
Remember to keep your pack on if you stop for a rest, unless you have to access something inside. Do not bend over when getting something from your pack—squat or kneel, since bending squeezes your lungs. When you are finished, slowly stand with your legs apart. Remember to adjust your daypack straps correctly otherwise they could restrict your breathing. Do not slouch over your walking sticks or poles while standing because this squeezes your lungs. Use sticks and poles to steady your body while you hold your head back, look at the stars and breathe with a clear air way. You will be amazed how good you’ll feel! Furthermore, the stars and planets are amazing!
Somewhere on the ascent, there could be easy rock scrambling. Try not to hold your breath. Many people seem to hold their breath on a difficult section. In fact, what you should do is breathe even harder before starting the scramble and breathe evenly as you pass over the section. Chew an antacid or a glucose tablet if you have an unsettled stomach. A glucose intake will also assist in the production of ATP, so keep a packet in your pocket.
On the night ascent you must cover your mouth and nose. A light Balaclava made from polypropolene is ideal. A bandana, an extended neck warmer or even a pair of light polypro long john underwear tied around your head will do. It is important that you breathe easy through the material. On the higher levels, your mouth and nose cover will freeze on the outside but don’t worry. As you breathe through the material, you will inhale a certain amount of moisture from your previous exhales. What you must not do is to breathe in that dry cold air. Cold air can damage your upper air passages. When you get down from the mountain you could lose your voice for a while, have a nasty cough or be open to any number of infections like bronchitis.
HypoxiaYou may see people on the way up not in control of their situation. They may not be responding too well to other people around them. They could be lying down or slumped over with their heads down. If you do happen to hear them talk, they will be slurring their words. Their diaphragm is all crunched up, so their lungs can never work well. They are suffering from hypoxia, because they have a deficiency of oxygen in their brain and muscles. Hypoxia could lead to hypothermia (having abnormally low temperature)
These people don’t know that they should:
Push the stomach slightly out and breathe in through the mouth, lifting the diaphragm up and filling the lungs from the bottom. Exhale as soon as they can through the mouth, making an ‘O’ with the lips. Force the air out and breathe in again. When at rest, stand with the legs wide and braced, head up, looking at the stars, and breathe, breathe and breathe!
Nobody had informed them!
10. Sunburn and eyesIt is a nasty old sun up on the mountain and it is not the best place to sunbathe! Please use plenty of sun cream on your face, nose, ears and the back of your neck. If you are not wearing gloves on the lower levels, remember to use sun cream on the backs of your hands. Don’t forget you lips—use Chap stick. If you like to hike in a T-shirt, cover your neck with a bandanna or something similar. I prefer to hike with a shirt that has a high collar that I can turn up to cover most of my neck. Sun hats are very important. The best have a really good peak and long fabric tailpiece that protects the back of the head and neck.
Partial windburn on the face is very common. All you can do is cover up as much as possible and keep slapping sun cream over sensitive areas.
I have seen some very bad sunburn on the inside edge of the lower lip. Walking along breathing through an open mouth while facing a low-angled high-altitude sun causes this burning. Chap stick will not help in this instance. Only Uhuru peak summiteers experience this problem in the early morning. Often, these are people walking east up to the summit from the western approach and returning from the summit down towards Gilman’s Point.
You must be particularly careful. The sun has risen on a new day and you are walking facing right into very strong ultraviolet rays. What to do? Well, remember that you are still wearing that balaclava or bandanna? Continue using it covering your mouth and nose. If you have a peak cap or a sun vizier use that as well. Walk down with a narrow slit to look through. You must keep your face covered as long as you are facing the sun! You will see other people walking barefaced. Don’t copy their example!
EyewearWhen there is snow and sun, it is advisable to wear glacier goggles. It is even more important to wear a long peak cap or sun vizier over or under the balaclava. A problem arises when you have to wear prescription or glacier sunglasses. They are sure to mist over. Prescription glasses seem to be less of a problem but are still annoying. If there is no snow en route, you can trek without sunglasses unless your eyes are well shaded.
Snow blindnessSnow blindness is the same as ‘arc eye’ that electric arc welders get if they do not wear protective dark masks. Snow blindness occurs when the surface of the eyes becomes sunburnt. It feels like having sand in your eyes and is very painful throughout recovery. Fortunately, snow blindness is a very unusual complaint on Kilimanjaro.
What is more common and is usually mistaken for snow blindness, is blurred vision. Blurred vision is caused by the haemorrhaging of small blood vessels in sensitive light receptors at the back of the eye. This can happen even on an overcast day. Rarely is there any permanent damage. I once had such a case a few years ago. On the trek from the summit, one person in my party lost her vision. She was sensitive to light but could not see any discernable shapes. Fortunately she was not too serious and apart from having to be personally guided off the main peak area, she was none the worse for wear. The condition cleared as she descended. Once she had been at a low altitude for 36 hours, her vision was totally restored to normal.
11. Walking downLet’s go back to Uhuru Peak on Kibo, the summit of Kilimanjaro, or anywhere on the crater rim. Well done! It is always an effort irrespective of how many times you have been there. After all the hugging and hand shaking there is still an important function to continue to do. Continue to breathe form the lower diaphragm. Just because you have arrived at the rim or summit does not mean that you begin to slacken into shallow breathing.
I saw a man at Kibo Hut, which is at the base of the cone, being wheeled on a stretcher to a lower altitude. He could not walk any further. His lips were blue and he was very drowsy. Like his friends, the man had been to the summit. His friends were also tired but not in the same state of collapse. The friends maintained that the party had stayed too long at the summit. It is quite likely that the man, more than any of his friends, was breathing incorrectly at the summit and on the way down.
Many trekkers experience headaches and nausea on the way down because they believe that’s it. “I have done it! I don’t have bother about my breathing any more.” You may become sick on the way down if you do just that!
Of course you don’t have to work so hard at your breathing technique because you are walking downhill. However, you must maintain steady breathing from the lower diaphragm.
A simple technique for walking downhill is to let your knees bend as you slightly sink to every step. You must take the weight of your body on your thigh muscles. If you don’t, you could have serious problems with your knees.
Some trekkers like to make the most direct descent possible. By going straight down, you can lose altitude very quickly on long scree sections. Other trekkers prefer to follow many of the zigzags they took on their way up. Whatever way you descend, make sure you do two things. Roll your hips slightly with each step so that your lower spine is flexible and let your knees bend. This will cushion each step. Remember not to be stiff-legged. I can guarantee this will seriously injure your ligaments and knee cartilage.
Another important tip for your journey down the mountain:
Tighten your boot laces and pull your heels back inside the boot before the steep section down. This will prevent your toe tips and toenails from hammering the boot toecaps from the inside. Toe tip blisters and blackened toenails are very painful and crippling!
12. Well beingFeeling good but tired?We all feel tired in varying degrees. Do you have sore eyes, weary legs and not very hungry? Don’t worry. Your body is adjusting to all the altitude changes. Just drink plenty of fluids. Try to eat well, but not too much at your night stop over from the summit since your digestion may still be unsettled. Get a good night’s sleep and you will feel like a new person in the morning. Believe me you will, even though you may feel that you have walked your last step to the night stop over. Maybe you did not reach the highest point on the crater rim, so what? You have been on one of the greatest volcanoes in the world. That in itself is a significant life experience.
The well being of the mountain is also important. Please take all your rubbish, especially plastic, metal tins and foil. Some ugly pits have been dug at most camp and hut sites for decomposable waste. However, all manner of rubbish finds its way into them. Don’t add to this degradation. There is no effort in placing your non-degradable waste in small plastic bags. Either place them in your luggage or give them to your guide. All reputable companies have instructed their guides and porters to carry rubbish off the mountain.
Well, you are set to climb more than just Kilimanjaro. Just remember the few things mentioned above on the next high mountain. The most important point is to breathe the right way as your body gets used to the high altitude.
TippingTips for guides and porters are obligatory, don’t let anybody tell you otherwise. Tips are a part of their income. Don’t settle for “it’s up to the visitor/client to decide how much at the end.” Of course if you have had a very bad service, then it is your right to refuse to tip. In this case, you must speak to someone in authority within the trekking organization or a high-ranking official at the park headquarters.
Begging from the trekking staff should not be tolerated though! Begging can be very harrowing for the inexperienced visitor. Report any begging to trekking organization. Old mountain clothes are always welcome, but they must be given as presents, not in the place of a cash tip.
As a guideline, an individual trekker should give a collective tip of 10 USD or an equivalent amount in hard currency per day spent on the mountain. Some trekkers like to give an extra personal tip to a guide or a porter for a special service, like if the porter carried the trekker’s daypack on the summit day. That is fine, however, do it carefully so as not create rivalries.
13. Around KilimanjaroKilimanjaro is a fauna and flora haven. Many good guidebooks on the market give details on Kilimanjaro’s fauna and flora. I do not aim to compete with these books but rather to complement them. There is a list of recommended reading at the end.
I have found that most trekkers are taken up with trying to arrive at the summit in one piece. Only on the way down do they become aware of their surroundings.
Kilimanjaro is a huge volcano that has three vents—the eroded Shira caldera to the west, the jagged Mawenzi to the east and Kibo cone in the middle. The volcano was formed along a lateral fault line near the rift valley. There are many other volcanoes and ash cones on the same fault line. Mount Meru to the west is one of them. It is not correct to say that Kilimanjaro is extinct. It is dormant, as there are fumaroles in the Reusch crater. These are steam vents that you can at times see from Uhuru peak. Interesting to think that in the future there could be an eruption. It may not be in the existing crater area. It could be lower down on the flanks, for instance the ash cones on the walk between Mandara and Horombo, or along the fault line out on the plains.
Thousands of trekkers visit Kilimanjaro every year, yet there are areas on the mountain that are seldom visited. Few parties go to the north side of Shira and Kibo. Only a handful of people have ever trekked or climbed on the southern and the eastern faces and pinnacles of Mawenzi. There are still things to discover if you have the time. A lava tube system (lava caves) was recently discovered on the northern slope of Mawenzi. Much of the upper system has been eroded away by past ancient glaciers but more discoveries are expected on the lower northern slopes.
Like all mountains in East Africa, Kilimanjaro is an island with a unique ecosystem. There are over one hundred species of alpine wildflower on Kilimanjaro and at any given time you will see some in flower. Take a field guidebook and try to identify them. You will see many yellow and white everlasting flowers on the high desert saddle between Mawenzi and Kibo. These amazing plants endure an over 40° temperature change every 24 hours. They come from summer to winter and back again every day.
On the saddle, you will occasionally come across tracks of buffalo, eland, jackal, hyena, duiker and if you are very lucky, leopard and lion tracks. It seems incredible that you can find lions at 4,400 m (14,500 ft) on Kilimanjaro, but they are certainly there! Notice the tiny spiders scurrying over the dust and scree. Lower down the mountain, you will see more evidence of small animal life. White-necked ravens are common near the huts and campsites. Sometimes the rare Lammergyer, also known as the bearded vulture glide overhead. You are likely to see several kinds of rodents running across the path and along well-worn trails in the grass. Alpine lizards lazily sun themselves on rocks. Scarlet-tufted malachite sunbirds flit around taking nectar from giant lobelia storks.
There are two notable giants on Kilimanjaro—the tree-like cabbage giant senecio, commonly known as the giant groundsel and giant heather. You cannot miss giant groundsel—they grow alongside every small stream. Giant heather grow in the upper forest. They look like gnarled fir trees and grow up to 10 m (30 ft). There are many beautiful flowers in the forest near the end of your odyssey.
Blue Monkey and Black and White Colobus family groups like to forage in the upper forest. The flash of scarlet between the trees is Hartlaub’s Turaco, a large bird that is very common in the forest but not easy to see clearly. Only the scarlet wings are visible when the bird flies.
Keep your head mobile and your eyes active and you will see a lot more interesting features on the mountain. Drink in the mountain—make it a truly great experience.
14. What next?Well, there is Mount Kenya in Kenya, a true mountain experience with fantastic flora and jagged peaks. The Ruwenzori Mountains in Uganda offer even more extensive mountain flora that covers hundreds of kilometres. Don’t forget Mount Meru, also in Tanzania,not far from Kilimanjaro. It is a beautiful volcano set in the animal wonderland of Arusha National Park. Mount Meru is like a volcano set in a volcano—there is a perfect ash cone enclosed by the huge cliffs of the main crater at the western end. The trek to the summit is one of the most spectacular walks in east Africa.
Don’t stop there. You can apply the rest step and breathing technique on any high mountain throughout the world.
15. Recommended readingThe Mountain Club of Kenya Guide to Mount Kenya and Kilimanjaro.
Edited by Ian Allan. Published by The Mountain Club of Kenya. 1998.
Trekking in East Africa. Lonely Planet walking guide. By David Else. Published by Lonely Planet Publications.
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